Silver shoes from a golden past: Lucknow's dying craft of gem-studded jootis lives on through few artisans

Lucknow’s silver jootis, a vestige of city’s storied past, remains a stunner to this day. a motley group of artisans are fighting various odds to keep this dying art alive

LUCKNOW: In the bylanes of Lucknow, a handful of artisans follow rhythmic movements of hammer and chisel to beat sterling silver sheets into beautiful gemstone-studded shoes that can give a pair of Gucci a run for its money.

You read that right. Footwear entirely made of pure silver and gemstones. Cushioned with soft leather on the inside, these shoes are perfectly comfortable to wear besides being a head turner. A lightweight pair of jootis made using 100 grams of silver can cost around Rs 40,000 for adults and Rs 12,000-15000 for kids.

The silver jootis of Lucknow are a testament to the city’s rich cultural legacy, showcasing the exceptional skill and precision of its artisans. These intricately designed, handcrafted masterpieces are more than just footwear – they’re a reflection of the city’s storied past.

For generations, artisans have dedicated their lives to perfecting the art of creating silver jootis, using techniques that have remained largely unchanged since the Nawabi period. The result is a collection of exquisite pieces that exude elegance and sophistication. Each jooti is a work of art, adorned with intricate designs and patterns that reflect the city's rich cultural heritage.

According to historian Ravi Bhat, “Silver jootis had come to India from Iran. A few of the artisans settled in Amroha. Since Lucknow was richer than the princely towns of Bombay and Calcutta during the Nawabi era, rulers were fascinated by 'chandi ki chappal' and invited Amroha artisans to Lucknow. Since the demand was high, most of them finally settled in Lucknow.”

Hafiz Khan , 70, is among the last of the artisans, who have kept alive Lucknow’s heritage of silver sandals, originally cherished by the begums and princesses.

In his house, situated right next to a busy street, in Lucknow’s Rajajipuram area, Khan , clad in a crisp white kurta-pyjama, sits quietly in a corner, carving intricate designs with his feeble hands.

“I have been into this craft since 1972. Before me, my ancestors kept this art alive. It’s a painstaking process that requires great skill and attention to detail. It begins with the selection of high-quality leather, which serves as the foundation for these exquisite pieces. I then embark on the intricate process of preparing thin silver sheets, beating them into shape with precision and care. These silver sheets are carefully cut into intricate patterns, each one a testament to the artisan’s mastery,” Khan says.

“We use specialised tools, many of which have been passed down through generations as treasured family heirlooms. These tools, combined with our skilled hands, bring the silver jootis to life, imbuing them with a beauty and elegance that is truly unique,” Khan adds.

The distinctive feature of these sandals lies in their elaborate embellishments. “I employ various techniques such as filigree work, known locally as ‘jaali’, and detailed engravings that showcase traditional Mughal motifs. The incorporation of kundan and precious gemstones adds sparkle and sophistication to the design. Each stone is carefully selected and set by hand, ensuring perfect alignment and secure fitting,” Khan says.

These sandals feature high-quality leather that's specially treated for durability and comfort. The soles are designed with multiple layers, offering excellent support while remaining flexible. This thoughtful design allows for a comfortable walking experience. The inner lining is typically made from soft leather or fabric, providing added comfort during extended wear.

The Demand

According to Khan, these sandals are quite popular during wedding season in Lucknow and surrounding regions like Unnao, Barabanki, Kanpur, Bahraich, and even Delhi.

Brides seeking one-of-a-kind footwear often turn to custom-made pairs that incorporate specific designs and motifs holding personal or cultural significance. These bespoke shoes are crafted with precision, reflecting both traditional aesthetics and modern tastes.

Some in-laws are buying these vintage jootis as ‘muh dikhai’ gifts, which are a significant part of Indian tradition, symbolizing good luck and prosperity for the newlywed. Parents often invest in silver sandals for their newborns, considering them a precious keepsake. These sandals can also be purchased as a birthday gift, serving as a valuable investment piece that appreciates over time.

“I generally craft 15 to 20 silver jootis a month, and the demand has been consistent over the years,” Khan claims. Mohan Gupta , a jeweller in Chowk, says, “The demand is high during the wedding season when we sell around 20-30 pairs a month.”

Valuable investment

The price of silver sandals is determined by the current market rate of silver. According to artisans, a lightweight pair of jootis made from 100 grams of silver can cost around Rs 40,000 for adults and Rs 12,000 for kids. When reselling, you can expect to get back about 80% of the original price, making it a potentially valuable investment.

• Where to buy: You can purchase these exquisite silver jootis directly from local jewellers in Chowk and Aminabad to explore a wide range of designs and craftsmanship. You can also place an order with skilled artisans like Hafiz Khan, who can create bespoke silver jootis tailored to your preferences.
• Care is important: To maintain the shine and lustre of silver jootis, proper care is essential. “Refrain from exposing silver jootis to heavy perfumes, cosmetics, or chemicals, as these can cause tarnishing. Always keep silver jootis wrapped in a cotton cloth or pouch to protect them from air exposure, dust, and moisture. Store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, which can cause oxidation and discoloration. Gently clean silver jootis with a soft cloth and mild water-salt solution to remove dirt and grime. Dry thoroughly to prevent water spots,” Khan says.
• Challenges in modern times: The traditional craft of creating silver jootis faces significant challenges, including the rising cost of raw materials, particularly silver, which has impacted production. Furthermore, the younger generation shows limited interest in learning this intricate craft, often opting for more lucrative career paths. Increasing silver prices affect production costs and profitability. Since younger generations prioritize other career options over traditional craftsmanship, master craftsmen worry about the future of this art form.
• Preservation efforts: Despite these challenges, efforts to preserve and promote this cultural heritage continue, ensuring the craft's survival for future generations. Local authorities and craft organisations document traditional techniques and also help organise exhibitions to attract customers, supporting artisans in preserving their skills and promoting their work.